Forbidden Peak Climbs
Guided climbs of Forbidden Peak — the classic West Ridge, the North Ridge, the Torment–Forbidden Traverse, and a spring ski tour — deep in the heart of the North Cascades.
At 8,815 feet, Forbidden Peak is one of the most aesthetic summits in the North Cascades — a sweeping, symmetrical peak rising above Boston Basin. Its West Ridge is one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America: an exposed, moderate knife-edge of solid rock that's the benchmark introduction to Cascade alpine climbing.
Forbidden asks for the full alpine skill set — glacier travel to reach the basin, snow and rock climbing on the routes, and real route-finding. It's a perfect objective to make with a guide, whether it's your first classic alpine rock climb or a tick off a long-standing list.
What we guide on Forbidden
Alpine Climbing
Three guided routes to the summit — from the classic West Ridge to the committing North Ridge and the full Torment–Forbidden Traverse for experienced alpinists.
Ski & Splitboard
In spring, Boston Basin and the terrain around Forbidden offer a superb guided ski tour.
Looking for a custom date or a bigger North Cascades linkup? We run private and custom trips throughout the range — tell us your objective.
Routes & terrain
The West Ridge (5.6) is the classic — a clean, exposed ridge of solid rock and the most popular guided line, approached from Boston Basin over the Forbidden Glacier. The North Ridge is longer and more committing, with sustained climbing and serious position. The Torment–Forbidden Traverse links neighboring Mount Torment to Forbidden in one of the range's great alpine traverses. In spring, the Forbidden ski tour explores the basin's glaciated terrain.
When to go
Spring
Snow still fills the basin — prime for the Forbidden ski tour and early-season snow climbs.
Summer
Peak alpine rock season on the West and North ridges and the traverse.
Early fall
Crisp, stable conditions and fewer crowds before the snow returns.
Winter
Off-season for the rock routes; custom winter objectives by arrangement.
Why guide with us
We're North Cascades locals based in Glacier, Washington, and we guide these peaks all season. Low ratios, strong teaching, and the local knowledge to pick the right window — so you climb safely and come away more capable.
Forbidden Peak FAQ
How hard is the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak?
The West Ridge is rated 5.6 — moderate rock climbing, but exposed and in a serious alpine setting that also requires glacier travel and snow climbing to reach and descend. With a guide it's an achievable objective for fit climbers with some rock experience; it's a classic first big alpine rock climb.
What is the best route on Forbidden Peak?
The West Ridge is the classic and most popular line — one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The North Ridge and the Torment–Forbidden Traverse are bigger, more committing options for experienced alpinists.
How long does it take to climb Forbidden Peak?
Most guided Forbidden climbs are 2 to 3 days, including the approach to a Boston Basin camp, a summit day, and the descent. The Torment–Forbidden Traverse and North Ridge typically need the longer end of that range.
Where does the Forbidden Peak climb start?
At the Boston Basin trailhead off the Cascade River Road near Marblemount, in North Cascades National Park. From there it's a steep approach into Boston Basin, where climbs are typically based.
Do you need a permit to climb Forbidden Peak?
Boston Basin is in North Cascades National Park, so overnight trips require a backcountry/camping permit, and a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful pass is needed for parking. We handle permits and logistics with you before the trip.
Let's climb Forbidden
Tell us your experience and which route you have in mind, and we'll match you to the right guided Forbidden Peak trip or a custom date.