Forbidden Peak Climbs
Guided climbs of Forbidden Peak — the classic West Ridge, the North Ridge, the Torment–Forbidden Traverse, and a spring ski tour — deep in the heart of the North Cascades.
At 8,815 feet, Forbidden Peak is one of the most aesthetic summits in the North Cascades — with 3 spoked ridgelines, this symmetrical peak punctuates the alpine playground of Boston Basin. Its West Ridge is one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America: an exposed knife-edge of solid granite ledges and ridges that's a great moderate introduction to Cascade alpine climbing.
Forbidden requires a diverse alpine skill setwhile staying approachable— glacier travel to reach North Ridge, snow and rock climbing on the all 3 main routes, and real route-finding on the TFT. It's a perfect proression to climb with a guide, whether it's your first classic alpine rock climb or a tick off a long-standing list.
What we guide on Forbidden
Alpine Climbing
Three guided routes to the summit — from the classic West Ridge to the committing North Ridge and the full Torment–Forbidden Traverse for experienced alpinists.
Ski & Splitboard
In spring, Boston Basin and the terrain around Forbidden offer a superb guided ski tour.
Looking for a custom date or a bigger North Cascades linkup? We run private and custom trips throughout the range — tell us your objective.
Routes & terrain
The West Ridge (5.6) is the classic — a clean, exposed ridge of awesome granite towers and spires and the most popular guided line, approached from Boston Basin. The North Ridge (5.7) is longer and more committing at Grade IV, with a long scramble and stunning position over the Forbidden and Boston Glaciers. The Torment–Forbidden Traverse (5.7) links neighboring Mount Torment to Forbidden in one of the range's great alpine traverses. In spring, the Forbidden ski tour circumnavigates the entire mountain.
When to go
Spring
Snow still fills the basin — prime for the Forbidden ski tour and early-season snow climbs.
Summer
Peak alpine rock season on the West and North ridges and the traverse. Snow fields go through seasonal changes.
Early fall
Crisp, stable conditions with very little snow remaining makes it mostly rock and fewer crowds before the snow returns.
Winter
Off-season for the rock routes; Often technical snow and ice required. Custom winter objectives by arrangement.
Why climb with us
We're North Cascades locals based in Glacier, Washington, and we guide these peaks year after year. Low 2:1 ratios, strong coaching focus, and the local knowledge to pick the right weather and conditions window.
Forbidden Peak FAQ
How hard is the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak?
The West Ridge is rated 5.6 — moderate rock climbing, but exposed and in an alpine setting that also requires snow climbing to summit and about 9 rappells to descend. It climbs over 2,000' vertical over a 10-12 hour day. A guide helps streamline the objective for fit climbers with some rock experience; it's a classic first big alpine rock climb.
What is the best route on Forbidden Peak?
The West Ridge is the classic and most popular line — one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The North Ridge and the Torment–Forbidden Traverse are bigger, more committing Grade IV-V options for experienced alpinists.
How long does it take to climb Forbidden Peak?
Most guided Forbidden climbs are 2 to 3 days, including the approach to Boston Basin camps, and a 10-12 hour summit day, and the descent. The Torment–Forbidden Traverse and North Ridge typically need 3-4 days with consecutive long days of 10 hours.
Where does the Forbidden Peak climb start?
At the Boston Basin trailhead off the Cascade River Road near Marblemount, in North Cascades National Park. From there it's a steep climbers trail and psuedo schwack approach into Boston Basin, where most climbs are typically based.
Do you need a permit to climb Forbidden Peak?
Boston Basin is a high use zone in North Cascades National Park, so overnight trips require a backcountry/camping permit and can be very limited. An America the Beautiful pass is needed for parking. We handle permits and logistics for you before the trip.
Let's climb Forbidden
Tell us your experience and which route you have in mind, and we'll match you to the right guided Forbidden Peak trip or a custom date.