Forbidden Peak North Ridge Climb
Mountaineering Trip

Forbidden Peak North Ridge Climb

Duration3 Days
Skill levelAdvanced
SeasonSummer
Ratio2:1
Overview

The American Alps most complete alpine climb:

Forbidden Peak North Ridge

The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak is one of the North Cascades' classic moderate alpine climbs. This adventure takes you from camp across the Quien Sabe Glacier to the toe of the Boston Glacier Col Gullies. Here, you'll climb moderate rock or snow en route to the iconic overlook of the Boston Glacier. A rappel leads to glacier travel across the expansive Boston Glacier, up to the base of the North Ridge for the 2nd night bivy. The 3rd day leads up pitch after pitch of classic ridge climbing up rocky gendarmes to the summit. Descend by down climbing and rappelling the uber classic West Ridge, into the rappels of the Cat Scratch Gullies, and back onto the Pocket Glacier and then return to camp for a 3rd night or the walk out.

Client to Guide Ratios:

  • 2:1 Ratio: Maximum of 2 spaces per guide and 4 guests to 2 guides
  • Prices: Based on number of participants.

 

Details
  • Strong Fitness: Capable of handling 3-4 consecutive days of strenuous activity.
  • Rock Climbing Experience: Up to 5.7 grade.
  • Ice Axe and Crampon Experience: Essential for safety and efficiency.

 

Adventure Options:

  • 3-Day Climb: Focuses primarily on ascending the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
  • 4-Day Adventure: Includes additional climbs on Shark Fin Tower, Aguile D'Is, or Sahale.
  • 5-Day Adventure: Offers a combination of climbs including Shark Fin, West Ridge, Torment, or Sahale.

 

Itinerary

Day 1: Gear check, hike into camp, introduce and rehearse multipitch climbing techniques.

Day 2: Climb the Sharkfin Col and descend onto the Boston Glacier, then traverse over to the North Ridge Bivy or use as a weather day.

Day 3: Climb spectacular rock ridge line up to the Forbidden Peak Summit, descend down the Cat Scratch Gullies and hike out to the trailhead. Or stay another night.

Day 4: Hike out to the trailhead.

 

Join Us for an Unforgettable Climbing Experience

Are you ready for this stunning scramble to the summit of Forbidden Peak? A true gem of the North Cascades. Whether you choose a 3, 4, or 5-day adventure, our experienced guides will ensure a safe and professional climb.

Gear list

Gear list

Gear required varies trip to trip. Your guide helps you decide what to bring or leave during the gear check. Need to rent crampons, ice axe, harness, or helmet? Let us know when you book.

See full gear list

Cancellation

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