North Ridge Forbidden Peak: A Complete Route Guide

Shark Fin Col: 

We followed snow slopes up to the diminishing Quien Sabe Glacier along its northern flank. Seems as though there may not be much glacier left on this margin. Any late summer obs for this? We opted for the climbers right snow couloir (picture attached) then exited left up the loose gulley to the 1st of 2 rappels. A short steep step of rock took us off snow into the loose gulley.

Shark Fin Col Raps to Boston Glacier: 

The rap anchor at the top had good cord and pro. The stance from the master point is a little low, unidirectional, and tight-ish for 3 people. So belaying up to the rap anchor into a lower isn't self equalizing. Even so, figuring out a lower to the next rap anchor will keep good flow and the stance spacious. As per, this zone is chock full of loose rock. Rappel down slightly, climbers left to a 2 piton anchor with purple cord. (picture attached)

Rap #2: 

Rappel down a full 30m down snow, over the hanging moat, across collapsed snow plugs, to the other side of a steep tilted snow panel.Take care to knot your rope ends since this is a full rope length rap. This rap barely gets you to level ground, below large hanging snow, and possibly onto a sagging schrund.

Sharkfin Left: 

This option has a nice looking anchor on a ledge just above the snow. While on the other side it may only be 1 rappel into a moat and up and over a peeling slab of snow. This may be more appealing with a slightly more difficult ascent on better rock followed by a single rappel to a slightly better stance on the Boston Glc.

Boston Glacier to North Ridge access gulley:

During our rap we scouted our route through the Boston Glacier. Coverage and navigation was very straight forward but also close proximity to open, bridged, and thinly cracked crevasses. After descending to approx. 6,900' we contoured at about 7,000' across ramps, through flat sections of glacier and between crevasses. A slightly higher contour around 7,300' also looked like a good option. (picture attached)

North Ridge Access to top of the NW Face of N Ridge:

The tongue of snow off the Boston Glc, across a moat, into the loose gully below the N Ridge was in good shape. Investigating the moat crossing is important since it is undercut and thin in spots. However good crossings can be found over plugs and thick sections of snowpack.

After gaining ridge crest there are several bivy sites (approx 3 people). Status quo climbing on good rock up the first escarpment then down loose rock to the first notch. A few more bivy sites found in this notch. Then following easier terrain on the east side of the crest led us to the next camel hump and the 1st snow field. Staying mostly fenced between the snow field and rocks we followed this to the base of the next escarpment. Alternatively you could gain the snow field and crampon across this to the base of the next steep step. Either way the transition from snow to rock is massively undercut. Choosing where you travel in the last 35 feet before gaining rock may require investigating the underside of the leeward east aspect. Climbing a couple short pitches up the east side of the ridge crest led to a long fun section of scrambling near or on the west side of the crest. Finally exit the double camel hump section into the moat of the steep snowy NW Face of the N Ridge Forbidden. We donned crampons climbed a moderate pitch of snow then walked across the lofty NW Face snow slope to again gain rock and the last best section of the North Ridge. Just above the NW Face we found 3 great bivy sites with space for at least 3 more when the snow wall eventually melts out.

Bivy sites seemed to be found in every notch between steep steps of the ridge crest. There are 2 separate enormous snowfields to provide ample water anytime of year. There really was only 1 waterless bivy at the very first site after climbing the loose access gulley.

NW Face to Summit:

A vast improvement in rock quality appears from here to the summit. Following the ridge crest we climbed and scrambled amongst stunning positions, jaw dropping views of the Inspiration Skyline, and finished on a fun hand crack directly onto the summit.

West Ridge & Cat Scratch Descent:

Status quo descent with a couple extra raps in places you may not need it. The 3 primary established rappel stations are still in decent shape with stacked cord but could be cleaned up and replaced with thick static cord such as the black & white material placed sometime in 2019? A short section of snow still lingers above the 1st cat scratch rap. Otherwise good anchors and standard stances for the raps lead all the way to the snowfield/ dead glacier. The last 3 raps after crossing over the gulley have new updated cord. The last rappel to snow barely makes it over the moat with a 60m rope.

• 60m Rope

• Rack: Single Rack BD #0.4-#3, 1 set of Offset nuts, 6 slings and draws total

• Lightweight Crampons, Ice Axe, Helmet

• Seasonal dependent foot wear: Crampon Compatible Boots & Approach Shoes

• Overnight Bivy: Pad, Bag, Stove, Tarp, Food, Water Storage