Skiing in Kulusuk East Greenland : Dog Sleds, & Polar Bears

When planning and anticipating one of the world's most unique ski experiences, common considerations often include snow conditions, routes, and guest satisfaction. But rarely do they involve dog sleds, seal hunters, and a polar bear sharpshooter. Yet, not every international ski trip offers the thrill of exploring the edge of the Earth and the Greenland ice cap.

Greenland's ice sheet is over a mile thick, pressing down the center of the island as its edges spill and gouge into tidewater glaciers that empty into the Atlantic Ocean. This is where you’ll find one of the most unique settings on the planet. Situated in the North Atlantic and straddling the Arctic Circle, Kulusuk is steeped in mystique and lore.

Civilizations have clung to and sometimes failed to survive in this rugged and inhospitable landscape. With this challenging backdrop, we embarked on an epic journey. Flying from North America to Iceland, we then took a two-hour prop plane flight to the remote coast of East Greenland. Our mission: to spend a week skiing tidewater glaciers, summiting peaks that overlook frozen icebergs in the North Atlantic, all while being vigilant for the world's largest predator, the polar bear.

Arrival in Kulusuk

We arrived in Iceland enthusiastic but weary from the seven-hour time change, energized by the sense of adventure in an area with scant information available. As we crossed the North Atlantic, we peered through the clouds and glimpsed Greenland’s ice-covered, snow-white mountains. Small fishing boats, owned by hunters, came into view as we landed at the Kulusuk airstrip. Exiting the plane directly onto the gravel runway, we were ready to tour from this small, remote outpost.

After a 45-minute trek with our ski gear, we reached the cozy Nanuk Lodge. Settling in, we enjoyed snacks before heading out for avalanche rescue drills and a tour of the village of Kulusuk. By day's end, we returned to the lodge, where a delightful meal awaited us, prepared by Theresa and Helen. The scenic dining room, overlooking the village harbor, provided a serene setting where we watched fishing boats anchored on buoys in the summer, replaced by snowmobiles and the occasional seal carcass in winter.

The Adventure Begins

Each morning began with a hearty breakfast provided by Theresa. Geared up and ready, we rode snowmobiles, tracked ATVs, or dog sleds across the frozen ice to Apusiaajik Island. There, we summited our first mountain, enjoying three breathtaking laps descending all the way to the seaside, overlooking fjords and floating icebergs.

The next day took us deeper into the heart of Apusiaajik Island. We ascended a snowy, Hershey-kiss-shaped peak, with the final summit requiring crampons and ice axes to safely navigate a moderate slope above an exposed ridge. The achievement of reaching our first summit set the stage for the rest of our ski week. Descending smoothly over a 35° slope of sun-soaked corn snow, we glided down in unison, our turns like a school of fish rushing to the sea.

Unexpected Encounters and Weather Challenges

Amidst our descent, we were unexpectedly joined by a dog sled team, mushing across the ice to recover a polar bear hunted the day before. With the next two days forecasted for rain, we waited out the storm in comfort, staying dry as the rain transformed the snowpack into smooth, velvety, large-grained corn.

During this downtime, our group bonded over discussions on personal lives, achievements, and a myriad of engaging topics. We reviewed avalanche forecasting processes and rescue skills, all while peering through binoculars, watching the rain, and strategizing future routes.

Final Ascents and Unmatched Views

On our fifth day, we ventured out across water-flooded sea ice, carefully avoiding the deepest pools to stay dry. Ascending towards the island’s highest peak, we navigated around crescent-shaped crevasses lining the harbor. The final stretch required crampons to reach the summit, where expansive views awaited. Surrounding us were fjords, ice caps, and mountain ranges with hues of blue and turquoise, painting a picturesque Arctic landscape.

Conclusion: A Journey Like No Other

Skiing down from these heights, we enjoyed sun-softened, rain-soaked snow, carving turns through couloirs and crevasses, and soaking in the breathtaking scenery. Our journey in Kulusuk, Greenland, was unlike any other, combining the thrill of skiing with the raw, untamed beauty of the Arctic. This adventure will remain etched in our memories, a testament to the unique and unforgettable experiences that lie at the edge of the Earth.